There is a lot of talk on the web about removing sway bars on the MGs. You can find postive and negative comments about removing them.
Chevyhardcore.com recently had an article on sway bays and how they work. It all boils down to handling.
You can read all the details on anti-roll, weight distribution, and "faster on the corners" right here on Chevyhardcore.
I had cut this fuel tank in half to use it in the design of a VDO fuel sender & gage. I was surprised to see this upside down domed baffle that did not quite reach the bottom of the tank. I was about 11 inches in diameter with a hole in the lower portion about 2 1/2 inches in diameter.
These dimensions are from memory as I have disposed of the tank parts. Baffles are typically used to quiet sloshing noises or to keep fuel around the fuel pump pickup tube when rounding corners. I believe that baffles can help strengthen fuel tanks in a crash situation depending on their design.
I have a relatively new MGB fuel tank which has no baffles. It may even be a slightly thinner gage of steel. For more information, search "fuel tank baffling" on your computer.
Click on any image for close up pictures of the baffling. If you have any more information on the domed baffle you would like to share, please let the club know via the Webmaster.
For some reason across Canada, and often at poorly maintained gas stations in the US, those latches that allow you to pump gas without having to hold the pump trigger depressed, are missing. The pump is still required to have an automatic shutoff when it senses that the tank is full, so that it is perfectly safe to improvise your own latch.
The problem is most apparent, of course, in Winter, when you would rather be back in your warm car or cleaning the salt covered windows. It's also the time you are most likely to have a lip salve like Chapstick or Blistex in your pocket. Put one under the trigger and retreat to the car. The only hazard: when the pump automatically switches off, your lip salve may jump out, and of course they never roll away from the car, always underneath.
You might be familiar with "Speed Bleeders". Anything to make brake bleeding easier has to be a good item! I put them on my car, and have found them to be wonderful.
This is a replacement brake bleeding valve or nipple. It has a built in check valve keep the air from returning into the system. You replace the brake bleeding valve, hook up the plastic tubing to the valve, loosen it a 1/4 turn or so and pump your brakes until the line is free of air bubbles. The check valve does the work of tightening up the valve after each compression of the brake. When all done, snug up the Speed Bleeder, and repeat the process on you next brake.
You need to make certain you get the correct threads for your brake. They are made in all different sizes and readily available at your local auto parts store or on line. I even saw a kit on eBay that included five items, one for each brake and one for the clutch. My 76 Midget used 3/8-24 for the front, 1/4-28 for the rear, and I believe it is supposed to be 3/8-24 for the clutch. On the MGB it is 7/16-20 for the clutch, and my Midget is also the larger size. Unfortunately, that 7/16-20 size is not nearly as popular as other sizes. I haven't done the clutch yet, but they come in pairs, so after the clutch I will have an extra one for a great deal! Chance to make a high priced trade for something!
The threads are coated with a material so when you unscrew the valve a bit, the thread still seals. This can wear off, and they have a paint type material to reseal this. Hopefully, you won't have to bleed your brakes often enough to need to reseal the threads.
They are advertised as making brake bleeding a one person job. I found it was much easier with a second person. It is difficult to press on the brake pedal, and be under the car watching the plastic tubing at the same time!
I've just read John Twist's column in the new "Classic MG Magazine" and learned that the original fuel line hoses can rupture length-wise without warning. I called John and this is what he said. "The original hoses are smaller and smooth on the outside, because they did not have any cloth braiding like regular fuel line hoses." All hoses should be inspected and replaced because these hoses can fail.